Nissan Micra K11 buyers guide by Argh!stop!

Released in 1992 the bubble shape Micra (K11) replaced Nissans best selling K10 Micra. Like the Primera, European ones were built in Nissan's plant in Washington. With a choice of 1 litre, 1.3, 1.4 (Actually a 1.35) and later on a Peugeot diesel (in Europe but there are a few over here) The car won European and Japanese car of the year in 1993 It was face lifted first in 1996, 1998 and again in 2000.As they sold so many there are plenty out there so if you are buying one do not settle for the first one you see. Anyway, here is my list of things to look at if you are buying or running one.Cross member! If you open the bonnet and look at the panel that runs along the bottom of the radiator, that is the cross member. Micras are notorious for this dissolving with rust! If the top edge looks ok have a look/feel along the rear edge and underside. Technically not an MOT fail as it is over 30cm from any suspension, steering or brake mountings but the main engine cross mount, the radiator and bonnet catch are all under stress and headlight alignment will be out if it rots. Repair sections are available on ebay but it is a weld on job. You can almost guarantee the bottom inner headlight mounting captive bolts will break off the headlamp as you take them out. When you are putting it back together remove the plastic clips for the grille and fit them to it rather than trying to fit them to the grille on the car.Throttle body, poor idle/fuel consumption. The mass airflow sensor is mounted inside the throttle body housing. It is soldered in with 3 terminals. These terminals suffer from dry joints as the connection breaks down. If you catch it early enough you can pop the silver square cover off the side of the throttle body and resolder them but if it has been left too long the sensor will have burned out requiring a new throttle body. If you are unlucky it will have caused the O2 sensor to burn out too. Great! Later (1998 on cars I think) do not have the small cover on the throttle body so they cannot be fixed in this way.Non starting. Distributors on earlier cars break up inside causing no sparks. Replacement is the only option but before you rush out and change it, have a look inside the small engine bay fuse box just next to the distributor. The first fuse (a 15-amp blade fuse) is for the injectors. Make sure it has not corroded away or blown.If you do have to replace the distributor to set the timing properly, warm the engine up, turn it off, disconnect the throttle position sensor (drivers side of the throttle body 5 terminals) then set it. Remember to reconnect it when you are done!If the engine turns over and here is no fuel, turn the ignition off, lift the bottom part of the rear seat up and listen for the fuel pump motoring when you turn the ignition on. It will run for about 5 seconds after you turn the ignition on. If it doesn't then check all the fuses (in the fuse box on the dash and in the engine bay) if they are ok reach under and give the centre of the fuel tank a good hard punch or kick. Sometimes the motor jams and this amazingly works!If the fuel pump works try changing he fuel filter as it is often overlooked during servicing. Its pretty easy to get to. (on the bulkhead, passenger side of the engine bay!)Dash light/tail light fuse keeps blowing. Check to see if the original radio is fitted. If not, remove the radio and you will probably find the radio has been earthed through a red wire with a blue trace. This is actually the live to illuminate the factory stereo unit. when you switch the lights on it will blow the fuse (think its the 3rd from the bottom on the left row in the interior fuse box. If the cigar lighter /radio feed fuse keeps blowing, more often than not its because there is a 5p in the cigar lighter socket!Dodgy bodywork! Other than the cross member pay attention to the sills. If they have been repaired make sure it

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